Erin and Ike head south to Arkansas—a state Erin had never really given much of a chance. But before they even reach Little Rock, the hills and curves of the Ozarks begin dismantling nearly every assumption she brought with her.

At the Arkansas State Capitol, a beautiful lawn reveals a much more complicated story. From roses, bauxite, and an unexpected gold-topped dome to Confederate memorials, the Little Rock Nine, and an ongoing fight over the Ten Commandments, these grounds ask visitors to do more than admire the view. They ask them to slow down, look closer, and decide how history should be remembered.

Arkansas may be easy to overlook, but it isn’t simple—and sometimes a place can surprise you only after you finally give it a chance.