The tidy image of Betsy Ross snipping a five-pointed star for George Washington is a sanitized fiction that entered American consciousness nearly a century after the fact. This deep dive strips away the rocking chair to reveal Elizabeth Griscom, a working-class artisan whose real life involved religious rebellion, war contracting, and surviving epidemics.

Born in 1752 and apprenticed in the grueling trade of colonial upholstery, she was excommunicated from the Quakers for eloping with John Ross. Widowed young, she leveraged a widow's legal autonomy to run her business through the Revolution, pivoting from luxury goods to military supplies and ammunition.

• The industrial reality of colonial upholstery versus delicate needlework
• How she manufactured paper musket cartridges for the Continental Army
• The 1777 Pennsylvan ...