The first time Lesley Kennedy went to Edinburgh, she was twenty-one, attending court as a witness, with no map, no smartphone, and no idea where she was going. She asked strangers for directions. Several of those strangers were also lost. Some didn't speak English. She made it.

In this episode: Edinburgh's pronunciation sorted once and for all. The Glasgow vs Edinburgh question answered honestly. The castle that has never fallen to a frontal assault. Closes, cobblestones and ghost stories. Five writers who couldn't escape the city. Burke and Hare assessed with the professional eye of a former police officer. Greyfriars Bobby and why you really need to stop rubbing his nose, and the Edinburgh Festival, busier than you think, stranger than you imagine, and absolutely not for the easily affronted.

Scots Word of the Week: Haar. The cold s ...