That's Not Real Climbing

That's Not Real Climbing

di Jinni Xia
Sport
Stagione 7
Meagan + C Lad - SPONSORED belayers?!
Meagan Knecht and C Lad are both level 5 belayers in the USA who are also helping out with belay training videos for World Climbing. In this episode, we’ll debunk the myth that women can’t belay men or heavier climbers, we’ll learn about the problems with Assisted Braking Device (ABD)requirements in gyms, and of course, we'll talk about how to get into high level belaying and how they became SPONSORED belayers thanks to Trango. Guest links: USA Belay Instagram C Lad's Instagram Meagan's Instagram USA Belay YouTube Reference links: Wujiang 2025 Belayer Aiding Climber Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:29 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:19 - Excitement for Pan-American series 4:21 - Getting into climbing and belaying 14:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Difference between an avg vs elite belayer? 20:26 - Work that allows the flexibility for travel 22:48 - How to get into belaying at a high level 27:43 - Setting the standard for World Climbing 34:36 - ATC vs ABDs in gyms 39:06 - The belayer's unique pivotal role 43:41 - Snugroping? 45:28 - Athlete interactions 48:00 - Dual-belay system 52:44 - Is it too late to become an Olympics belayer? 56:42 - Being sponsored as belayers 1:01:54 - Why is belaying para the best? 1:08:46 - Routesetting that makes belaying harder 1:14:25 - AUDIENCE Q: What's it like to walk up to an Olympian and belay them? 1:16:59 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite venue to belay at? 1:18:33 - Where to find the beladies and words of wisdom
S7 · E3
13 lug 2026
1:22:59
Max Ayrton - "Alternative" Climbing Moves Are SO In
Max is a World Climbing routesetter from Great Britain who most recently set for the bouldering world series in Bern 2026 and will be setting for Salt Lake in October as well. In this episode, we’ll learn about hold shaping, what happened when the Bern finals boulders got leaked early online, whether world cup routesetters can actually climb the boulders they set, and we’ll hear about his extremely hot take on “alternative” climbing moves...I had no idea that he was the infamous cartwheel boulder setter. Guest links: Max's Instagram Reference links: Bern Women's M3 CWIF Cartwheel Boulder Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:28 - Climbing, competing, setting background 7:00 - World climbing setting levels 10:44 - Bern Finals boulders got leaked 15:24 - AUDIENCE Q: Is it easier setting in a climate-controlled venue? 18:24 - What is the perfect round? 22:02 - AUDIENCE Q: What guidance does world climbing give for setters? 24:19 - Forerunning process 29:26 - Setting "unconventional" moves 34:46 - OMG!! This is the OG cartwheel guy!! 38:00 - The divergence of indoor/comp climbing from outdoors 42:34 - Zones vs tops point change 44:53 - Starting Contact Holds with Alex Waterhouse 52:55 - AUDIENCE Q: What's Alex Waterhouse up to?! 54:26 - AUDIENCE Q: Is there any consideration for the belayer when setting? 59:21 - AUDIENCE Q: Planning vs improvising problems? 1:00:45 - AUDIENCE Q: Will the Christmas Yule log comp be on this year? 1:02:29 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite member of house 51? 1:03:21 - Words of wisdom and where to find Max
S7 · E2
29 giu 2026
1:05:05
Samuel Richard - New School Climbers are LOCKED IN
Sam is an 18 year old French boulderer who just recently won bronze at the 2026 Madrid world climbing series. You may also know him as the youngest person to ever do v17. In this episode, we’ll get insight into the world of new school climbing, how regimented routines and being locked in could push climbing further than ever before, and how he may want to just give up climbing one day. Guest links: Sam’s Youtube Sam’s Instagram Reference links: Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:26 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:17 - Reflecting on Madrid World Series 6:40 - Can you see results in ISO? 9:31 - Starting climbing at age 2 12:46 - Climbing strengths and weaknesses 16:17 - Fearlessness for new school climbing 22:05 - French team training and powering out 24:30 - French Team Selection 29:36 - Qualis is the most physical round 31:37 - "Sam Richard" as a persona 35:19 - Getting energy from the audience 38:41 - Climbing journal 43:49 - Hot take: outdoor climbing is better than indoor? 51:35 - Youngest person to climb v17? 53:08 - Climbing optimization 57:13 - Quitting climbing for running... 1:01:39 - AUDIENCE Q: How's the transition from youth to senior? 1:05:13 - AUDIENCE Q: How to hype yourself up? 1:07:05 - AUDIENCE Q: How's the bromance between you, Mejdi, and Manu? 1:10:05 - Words of widsom and where to find Sam
S7 · E1
15 giu 2026
1:11:31
Stagione 6
Emil + Felix Abrahamsson - ANNOUNCING Fantasy Climbing League!
You likely know Emil from being one of the OG climbing Youtubers who has also competed in a few world cups for Sweden. With his brother, Felix, they have started a new Fantasy Climbing League platform! In this episode, we’ll learn about how the Fantasy Climbing League works, how they feel about sports gambling in climbing, who their top picks are for their teams, and their predictions for all things competition. Guest links: Fantasy Climbing League Site Emil’s Youtube Felix’s Instagram Emil’s Instagram Reference links: Boardclimbs App Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:01 - Living in Arco 5:22 - Starting climbing and competing 14:26 - Existential AI talk 17:14 - Fantasy Climbing League overview 21:10 - They've never played fantasy sports before!! 22:47 - Drafting strategy 25:37 - Are fantasy leagues gambling-adjacent?? 33:36 - Top picks of the season 42:07 - Are injury comebacks good picks? 45:13 - Janja vs Ai debate 52:26 - Will Tomoa have a downfall?! 1:00:03 - Tomoa v Meichi? 1:02:37 - AUDIENCE Q: What style of comp climbing would change the results the most? 1:10:21 - AUDIENCE Q: What will the future of comp climbing look like? 1:13:38 - AUDIENCE Q: What expectations should a comp beginner have? 1:18:04 - AUDIENCE Q: What's your favorite WoW dungeon? 1:19:05 - Join Fantasy Climbing League ASAP!!!
S6 · E10
27 apr 2026
1:20:37
Sam Avezou - The SECRETS to French Climbing
Sam is a French boulder and lead climber who has medals from several world cups and competed alongside his sister, Zelia at the Paris Olympics! In this episode, we’ll learn more about what it’s like growing up in a climbing family, tips for climbing as a short king, why he struggled in the 2025 season, and how he self-coaches. Guest links: Sam’s Instagram Guitar Instagram Reference links: Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:24 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:34 - His mother still competing at 42 years old 7:45 - Getting into climbing and competing 9:31 - AUDIENCE Q: Did growing up in a climbing family add pressure? 12:52 - Struggling between youth and senior circuits 16:51 - Rough 2025 season 22:53 - 2028 Olympics strategy 26:37 - Being a short king 31:34 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for short kings? 35:41 - Training with the French team 37:51 - AUDIENCE Q: how do you self coach? 41:21 - Training only with climbing 45:21 - Gyms worth visiting in Paris 47:05 - Secrets to French slab 51:37 - AUDIENCE Q: What are you thinking about when climbing? 56:06 - Mental game 58:41 - 2026 goals 1:01:22 - AUDIENCE Q: Playing guitar? 1:04:58 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you make a living climbing? 1:08:40 - AUDIENCE Q: How to gain finger strength? 1:12:23 - AUDIENCE Q: Recovery routine? 1:15:56 - Where to find Sam
S6 · E9
13 apr 2026
1:17:10
Jackie Hueftle - The MASTERMIND Behind PCL Routesetting
Jackie was the routesetting director at the Pro Climbing League (PCL) comp and is also the co-founder of Kilter! In this episode, we’ll learn more about the unique challenges that came with setting for PCL, why she thinks it’s important to have more women setting for women’s comps, and how YOU could maybe try climbing the same exact boulders set at PCL. Guest links: Kiter’s Website Jackie’s Instagram Pro Climbing League Website Kilter Youtube Reference links: Underrated hold Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:20 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:00 - Still cleaning up from PCL 5:42 - Interesting Kilter free-standing option 7:34 - Getting into climbing, setting, and Kilter 13:38 - The political path to becoming an IFSC setter 15:34 - Starting the Woman Up Comps 20:00 - What grade do you need to climb to be a route setter? 22:31 - AUDIENCE Q: How did you build the PCL routesetting team? 28:46 - What made setting different for PCL 32:09 - How to get separation 36:30 - AUDIENCE Q: Was this speed bouldering, was women's setting too easy? 41:57 - Is sanding down holds fair?! 43:47 - Why it's hard to calibrate for female competitors 51:16 - How boulder changeover worked 55:37 - The slab that didn't get shown 58:24 - Different competition strategies 1:03:27 - AUDIENCE Q: Harder to gauge setting than World Cup? 1:04:18 - AUDIENCE Q: Did the setting matter more than a World Cup? 1:07:04 - AUDIENCE Q: Mixed gender events in the future? 1:09:13 - AUDIENCE Q: idea - 2 betas per boulder? 1:11:12 - AUDIENCE Q: Are setters more impressed or annoyed by beta breaks? 1:17:23 - AUDIENCE Q: What makes Kilter stand out? 1:22:30 - Underrated hold? 1:25:02 - Shoutouts and long work hours 1:26:51 - YOU can reset the PCL climbs and experience them!
S6 · E8
30 mar 2026
1:29:52
Mickael Mawem - An HONEST talk about money in climbing
Mickael is a french boulderer and he is the bouldering world champ from Bern 2023. In this episode, we have an extremely honest conversation about how growing up poor motivated him to make money as a climber, why he stuck with climbing despite the lack of financial prospects, what his training looks like which includes warming up with 80 pull-ups, and of course, what happened during the Bern world champ finals. Shoutout to Madrock for hosting this interview at their headquarters! Guest links: Mickael’s Instagram Reference links: Climbing with Jonathan Sin Video Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:30 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 3:46 - Starting climbing with his brother Bassa 7:45 - AUDIENCE Q: Being one of the few black climbers in the IFSC 13:39 - Affording climbing when growing up poor 24:31 - Pro climbing only pays enough for the present 28:10 - Why he would not choose climbing in hindsight 30:51 - Why he still chose climbing 34:34 - AUDIENCE Q: Will you ever compete again in the IFSC? 38:33 - The goal: be rich 45:25 - Bern World Champs finals boulders 53:26 - Encountering no-tex for the first time ever 1:01:59 - Mickael's crazy pull up training 1:06:12 - How to work on your technique 1:11:47 - The secret to French slab 1:14:28 - Why he trains alone 1:21:59 - Keeping up with the evolution of climbing 1:25:44 - His future in climbing? 1:31:01 - New climbing goal 1:33:38 - AUDIENCE Q: Who were your role models growing up? 1:34:46 - AUDIENCE Q: What's your family like? 1:39:28 - AUDIENCE Q: How to maintain strength without getting injured? 1:44:50 - Where to find Mickael
S6 · E7
16 mar 2026
1:45:56
Mo Beck - UNRETIRING for the Paralympic Dreams
Mo is a paraclimber in the AU2 class, and she is trying to qualify for the 2028 Paralympics! She has been climbing for over 22 years and had actually retired from competing…until hearing about the Paralympics. In this episode, we’ll learn more about what it’s like climbing with a stump, whether outdoor, indoor, or comp setting is most friendly to her impairment, we’ll talk about petty drama in the community, and what sport shopping is in the Paralympics. Guest links: Mo’s Instagram Mo’s Website Reference links: Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:18 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 1:59 - Lifting at a bro-y gym 3:28 - The 'stump' impairment 7:40 - Getting into climbing and competing 13:39 - Thoughts on gym setting for her stump 22:10 - Becoming a real sport means drama 28:16 - "Training" back then vs real training now 29:29 - World Cup appearances 2026 and 2027 30:55 - What we know about Paralympics qualifications 32:18 - How the Paralympics have changed paraclimbing 35:49 - Paralympic "Sport shopping" 38:09 - Heartbreak over which sport classes got chosen for the Paralympics 42:17 - What her training will look like to qualify at 39 years old 46:44 - Audience Q: What does the process look like to qualify for Paralympics? 48:59 - Dealing with comp nerves 50:49 - Is outdoor climbing more friendly for her stump? 52:38 - Outdoor projects and first ascents 58:00 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite comp memory? 1:01:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Podium cupcake story? 1:03:20 - AUDIENCE Q: Getting sponsored by North Face and tips for getting sponsors 1:06:20 - Words of wisdom and where to find Mo
S6 · E6
23 feb 2026
1:08:58
Rachel Carr - No high-level FEMALE COACHES??
Rachel is a Team GB coach and also Erin McNeice’s personal coach! She started as an athlete and competed in youth worlds, but moved down the coaching path shortly after. In this episode, we’ll talk about performance anxiety as an athlete, the difficulties she faced being taken seriously as a young female coach, and we’ll get insight into team GB’s training as well as Erin’s insanely huge team of coaches. Guest links: Rachel’s Instagram Rachel’s Youtube Reference links: Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:23 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:03 - Getting ready for British Bouldering Champs 4:41 - Performance anxiety as an athlete 8:59 - Being "realistic" on your performance 13:46 - Becoming a coach 15:44 - AUDIENCE Q: Difference between coaching youth vs senior? 20:48 - Weirdness of coaching your past competition 23:47 - Lack of trust in female coaches 31:44 - AUDIENCE Q: What advice would you give to aspiring female coaches? 34:29 - Erin's crazy huge team of coaches! 40:23 - Team GB's philosophy on training style 43:48 - Erin's 1 weird weakness... 45:47 - Overrated and underrated training techniques? 50:17 - Climbing goals 53:57 - What's better than coaching at the Olympics? 56:44 - AUDIENCE Q: Why was GB Climbing funding so bad? 58:43 - AUDIENCE Q: Team GB is so strong right now, how has that impacted camaraderie amongst athletes? 1:03:05 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you coach the mental side of competition? 1:07:53 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you think new comps like PCL will impact the scene for athletes and coaches? 1:10:05 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for new coaches? 1:12:47 - Where to find Rachel
S6 · E5
2 feb 2026
1:14:03
Emma Edwards - Prague Finals DISASTER!
Emma is a boulderer on Team GB. 2025 was her debut in the senior world cup circuit and she already made a world cup finals! However, if you don’t recognize her, it may be because that was Prague where her finals round got rained out. In this episode, we’ll go over ALL the mishaps that happened at Prague including an allergic reaction, and we’ll learn about her training schedule, team GB, the climbing culture in commercial gyms, and how often she goes through climbing shoes, which was MIND BLOWING. Guest links: Emma’s Instagram Reference links: Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:31 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:11 - My annual stretching resolution 5:29 - Used to do 6 days on 1 day off?! 9:29 - Getting into climbing and competing 11:47 - First year in the Senior Circuit 14:28 - Starstruck warming up next to Miho & Janja 16:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Advice for youth climbers transitioning to senior? 17:02 - Climbing styles 20:12 - Prague allergic reaction disaster 24:59 - Prague finals getting rained out 27:31 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you feel about the mental side of comp climbing? 29:51 - Pretty decent prize money! :o 31:40 - Being a taller climber 32:45 - Team GB training in commercial gyms 38:09 - British Youtube + Zoella 39:47 - Season expectations? 42:14 - Toxic Gym Culture? 46:45 - Outdoor Climbing 47:55 - Enjoying sedentary activities 50:29 - Trying to balance training with school 53:27 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you decide what gyms to train at? 55:12 - AUDIENCE Q: Making climbing shoes last? 59:09 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite boulder from Brussels European cup? 1:00:35 - AUDIENCE Q: What's the difference between TC and world cups? 1:02:42 - AUDIENCE Q: Does your brother climb harder than you yet? 1:04:43 - Words of wisdom and where to find Emma
S6 · E4
19 gen 2026
1:06:34
1 di 7